Tuesday, 15 March 2011 16:38
Strange as it may sound, only about 10% of the tourists traveling to Ladakh, actually go to Zanskar. The initial discussions on Zanskar with people in Ladakh gave me an idea of how remote this land is and how difficult it is to get there. Our driver, in his very informative and earnest tone told us, "the first time an army chopper had gone there for a rescue operation, the villagers had thought a huge bird had flown to their land and they welcomed it with food!" The 240 km dusty Kargil-Padum road, of which the first 90 km stretch is paved, remains open from around mid-July to early-November. In June, the summer is at it's peak in the region and the climate is ideal for trekking along the route, free from vehicular traffic of any kind and with the countryside freshly rejuvenated into life after months of frigid dormancy. Zanskar is extremely difficult to reach for tourists between November and May, because of the cold and the heavy snowfall it encounters during that period. Only well-prepared visitors should even try to attempt this, and that too with a knowledgeable Zanskari guide.
For those who dare to visit Zanskar in the winter, it is a unique experience since the Zanskaris host many religious festivals during this time: the Zanskari monasteries have still not shifted all of their celebrations to the summer, in spite of external pressure from the tourist crowd. In February, the Zanskar river freezes over and it is possible to walk all the way on ice to the village of Zangla from Ladakh - this is very affectionately known as the "Chaddar" (Blanket) trek.
The first stretch from Kargil is mainly Muslim dominated and the latter part has a large Buddhist population beyond Rangdum.
As the Zanskar road winds down the steep slopes of the watershed, to the head of the Stod Valley - one of Zanskar's main tributary valleys, the majestic "Drang-Drung" glacier looms into full view. A long and winding river of ice and snow, the “Drang-Drung" is perhaps the largest glacier in Ladakh outside the Siachen formation.
It is from the cliff-like snout of this extensive glacier that the Stod or Doda River, the main tributary of river Zanskar, rises. Within the mountain ramparts of this lost Shangrila, stand a number of ancient yet active monastic establishments. Some of these religious foundations have evolved around remote meditation caves, believed to have been used by a succession of the famous Buddhist saints for prolonged meditation in pursuit of knowledge and enlightenment.
Much of Zanskar's vegetation is found in the lower reaches of the valleys, and consists of alpine and tundra species. Most impressive are the meadows covered with thousands of Edelweiss. Crops including barley, lentils, and potatoes grown by farmers at the lower elevations, as well as the beautiful apricot trees. Domesticated animals such as the yak, dzo, sheep, horse, and dog are also found in the region. Yaks are used to plough the land, to thresh the grain, to carry heavy loads, and their dung not only serves as fertilizer but is also the only heating fuel available in the region. They are a vital source of milk and sometimes, but rarely, of meat. The yak's fur is used to make clothes, carpets, ropes, and bed covers. Among the wildlife that can be found in Zanskar are the Marmot, Bear, Kiang (Wild Ass), Bharal(Himalayan Blue Sheep), Alpine Ibex, Wild Sheep, Goats, and Snow Leopard.
If you're planning a visit to Zanskar, then you must include these in your itinerary:
- The Fort of Zorawar Singh in Panikhar (80 kms from Kargil)
- The Gelugpa monastery at Karsha - the waterfall in Sheila village
- River rafting from Serchu to Nyimu via Padam
- Gaurav Athalye











